Catching the light

The winter this far north is pretty dark.

Here on our small Hebridean island at 57° north at this time of year dawn doesn’t break until about 8.30am, and the sun sets before 4.00pm. It’s a short day.

We need to catch as much light as we can.

Cue the enormous windows. They really come into their own in the winter, and being south-east facing they capture as much of the daylight as is possible.

It may be a low sun in the sky in the winter, but every scrap of sunlight helps. The solar gain we get from sunlight, even in the winter, is significant. And beyond that the positive psychological effect of the sunlight is definitely a factor in keeping seasonal depression at bay.

The snow fell hard last night. We watched the snow clouds sweeping in across the Sound yesterday afternoon, dramatic and brooding. And then it started.

Snow approaching

By the time we awoke this morning the snow was a good four inches deep, and we judged the access track to the Croft impassable with the gradient of the slope. A friend driving a big 4WD vehicle tied to visit but had to leave it at the bottom of the hill and walk up.

It’s been a quiet, calm day with the cats in front of the fire drinking tea and reading books. My idea of bliss, to be honest.

Even on days like this, the sheer natural beauty of the highlands right outside our window is a constant reminder of why we’re here.

Fabric adventures

The sewing machine and boxes of fabric have been unpacked at last and after a quick dust-off were set up in my study.

It’s been over eight years since I last used my sewing machine. It’s been in boxes in storage all that time. I have missed it.

After installing a fresh needle and new thread I’ve been re-connecting with it, trying to remember settings, thread tension, width and how to spool the bobbins. I used to make tote bags with it as a hobby, and although I’ve never been a confident or expert sewist I do want to learn more.

And oh, the fabric stacks… I am a fabric hoarder. There, I’ve said it.

I have scraps of fabric kept “just in case” for quilting and bigger projects dating back twenty years and more. Someone once said to me that the collection and use of fabrics were in fact two entirely different hobbies, and I can see truth in that.

I’ve started unpacking and sorting the fabric, but there are many boxes more to go through. Everything from Japanese silk remnants to upholstery fabric and all variables between..

I’ve decided to keep it simple this year with some homemade linen napkins and a few small sewn projects as gifts for friends at Christmas.

And yes, you guessed it. One particular napkin project for a friend who loves Scandinavian fabrics did necessitate more fabric to be purchased! This is a beautiful Marimekko linen from Finland.

So, as the temperature outside drops and the snow forecasts threaten, I shall be tucked up in my study happily sewing away.

Let the November shadows gather.

‘Tis the season

It’s the season of evening fires, big skies, woolly socks, sleeping cats and warming food.

Winter is upon us, and although it’s not that cold yet, the trees are bare and the nights are stretching, dark and long.

It is dark now by 4.30pm and we make sure that the log basket is filled before then and that the woodburner is lit.

It’s a ritual that I love, turning the lights on, lighting candles in the living area and generally making things cosy. The crackling of the logs and the faint scent of woodsmoke are an essential part of winter.

The cats are usually in and sleeping if the weather is wet or windy, and it’s often both.

We bought a couple of extra chairs this week so that we can accommodate eight around the dining table more comfortably at Christmas. We have family staying plus friends and it’ll save us having to wheel office chairs in.

My love affair with old Ercol pieces continues. These are cowhorn chairs, as they’re called, solidly made of English elm, dating back to the 1950s. Elm is a lovely wood. Ercol are still making these today, but they’re no longer made of elm as there’s none left after Dutch Elm Disease ravaged the English forests over the last fifty years.

They join the mismatched crew of chairs from our previous lives around my old French oak dining table, made from trees felled in a French forest after the big storms of 1995.

I like that our furniture has had lives. It may be a bit shabby but it suits us.

We also unpacked my old sewing machine at last, so I’ve had a bit of a rearrange in my study to set it up and make a little space for sewing and another for reading and watching the world go by.

I can’t wait to get my easels in there and a work table so that I can also paint.

And get some art up onto the walls. It’s still all in the shed with the remaining boxes awaiting the walls to be finished. The house looks empty without art.

Soon, soon.

The Pickling Chronicles

The season for preserving is well underway here on the croft. One day I’m going to get my big girl pants on and try the scary-to-me proper pressure canning/water bath method, but for now I rely on the preserving properties of vinegar and sugar to keep my preserves shelf safe.

I started off a month or so ago with tomato kasundi, an Indian spiced tomato chutney which has become our favourite with a cheeseboard. Sadly only a few jars remain as I gave some away to fellow addicts and we’ve eaten a few already. I need to make more before Christmas to ensure that we don’t run out for Boxing Day.

Next I made green tomato and apple chutney using the unripened tomatoes from the polycrub. I haven’t tried one from this batch yet.

Then I made red pepper relish. I’m haunted by memories of a red pepper relish that I used to make in France many years ago which was absolutely delicious. But I can’t find or remember the recipe. This years attempt is a Delia recipe which looks good, so I have high hopes.

Then I decided I needed more pickle as we still had lots of tomatoes, so I roasted up the remaining cherry tomatoes with garlic and rosemary and made a different tomato chutney using a River cottage recipe.

But simmer it as I may the damned thing just wouldn’t thicken. After three hours I gave up and retired for the evening, coming back to it for a second boiling the next day. Eventually it reduced down sufficiently to put into jars, but by this time it was a very dark, gloopy brown so lord only knows whether it will taste any good when I eventually get brave enough to open a jar..

It may have eaten its way out of the jars on its own by Christmas ..

Crofting cooperative day

It’s the day that we were to host the local crofters cooperative.

One Sunday each month is designated the crofting cooperative day, and a group of local crofters take it in turn to host it. The day is used to undertake tasks where extra hands might be needed on the host croft – tree planting, digging drainage, pruning bushes, scything brush, that sort of thing.

Extra help from the skies!

We had just taken a delivery of more heritage apple and pear trees so had planned for the extra hands to do tree planting. We’d also collected a few dozen sacks of seaweed after the recent storms to mulch the base of the trees to suppress weeds and add additional nutrients.

Seaweed collection

The day dawned wet and windy. No surprises there on Skye, I guess. The local crofters are a hardy bunch completely undeterred by rain and they turned up well dressed for the weather.

Supplies for the workers

After a few hours of planting and mulching we broke for hot coffee, soup and home baked bread, and cinnamon buns. And a good natter about all matters land related.

Stormy skies

This is such a good initiative. We all help each other, and it’s great to spend time with like-minded people who are wrestling with the same challenges that we are. It’s also heartwarming to share the celebration of this wonderful place that we all live in.

The trees are in and happily tucked up with their collar of seaweed. Winter is coming fast now on the teeth of the gales, but we’re prepared.

Sunrises and storms

We’ve had some beautiful sunrises over the last few weeks.

This morning as the sun rose slowly behind the mountains on the Knoydart Peninsula it sent a shaft of sunlight through the valley towards Loch Nevis, like an orange searchlight.

The morning was blustery, with strong winds building steadily. We’ve had storm warnings of up to 80mph winds for the west of the island, and listening to the wind roaring around the house, I can believe it.

Time to secure the bins and tie down anything loose before it takes off.

I remember watching the cover on my rotary washing line wrestle itself free of its bindings and fly off triumphantly in a storm last year. It’s probably in Norway by now.

Home sweet home

We’re home again.

I’ve realised with this trip that however good it is to see folks, that I’m essentially a hobbit. Never happier than when I’m at home in my own bed.

We were welcomed back with this glorious sunrise.

The stags are roaring, there’s a distinct cold nip to the air and a light dusting of snow on the peaks. The ravens cronked their welcome from the old fir tree as the sun rose this morning.

And after packing off stepson and girlfriend who were house and cat-sitting for us whilst we were travelling, it’s just us and the cats again. Peaceful and quiet.

We’ve got a mound of washing to do, naturally, and I’m steeling myself to the work that needs doing on the Croft and in the polycrub now that we’re back. We still have late harvesting and pickling to do.

But it’s so good to be home.

Into the world again

We’ve been visiting family this past week.

We don’t get off the island very much these days, and being back in the world again, or at least the other world, seems very strange.

Yesterday we decided to try and do what normal people do and go shopping whilst close to a metropolis. We both needed boots/shoes and thought it would be easier to try them on physically than buy over the internet and have to return them if they didn’t fit.

So off we went to an outlet retail park.

It was a dispiriting experience and I was reminded immediately of why we’d chosen a different life, and how badly suited or prepared I was for re-entry into the “normal” world.

The retail outlet was full of cheap perfume, tinny-sounding background music and reduced goods. I absolutely hated it.

Hugh managed to find what he needed. I did not.

We traipsed from shop to shop, all happiness and life force draining slowly but steadily with each place that we visited.

After much searching, in desperation I did try a pair of ankle boots, but they wouldn’t do up and I left feeling dismayed that I was somehow too large now even for a pair of boots. I felt unworthy and embarrassed.

And I swore to myself that it was the last time that I would go “normal” shopping ever again.

Back to the anonymity of the internet and our little croft, I guess. I’m no longer a good fit for the wider world. I feel that I should scurry home to our quiet place and hide from judgemental eyes. I’m not sure that I want to leave again.

I feel a bit sad and emotional.

Blackberrying

I’m late this year with my blackberry collecting, but there again everything has been late this year from a plant perspective so I tell myself that it’s fine.

The lane at the bottom of the croft is full of brambles. I’ve been watching them develop as we pass and promising myself that I would find the time soon. Yesterday was the day.

I’d been over to a friends at Drumfearn to drop off some homemade chutney. Laura is a very talented basket maker and willow weaver and she had made a berry basket for me.

It’s a lovely thing, woven with different types of willow to give a subtle effect. She’s very talented.

And so, even before the label was removed, it was pressed into service as I returned home and passed the blackberry bushes.

Despite being a small basket it holds a surprising amount and it took forty minutes to even fill the bottom.

Most of them have been frozen on a tray and added to my winter blackberry stash which I add to sausage traybakes and apple crumbles. But a cupful was reserved for my morning yoghurt and granola and very delicious they were too.

One day I will reach the nirvana of picking enough berries to make blackberry wine. Joanne Harris, the author, has a lot to be responsible for – ever since I read her book BlackBerry Wine over ten years ago I’ve wanted to make some.

One day soon.

Groundworks

When the builders first cleared the site four years ago and excavated the house footprint and access track, they didn’t do a great job.

The access track was very roughly excavated, some type one was thrown down and no thought was given to drainage. A bit of an omission considering that Skye is one of the wettest places on the planet. All similar tracks in the area have drainage channels cut into the sides or down the middle.

The builders also refused to use geotec membrane to help hold the surface together on the slope, despite our suggestion to do so. We suspect that they’d never used it before, despite it being the de-facto standard for stabilising surfaces on slopes for decades, or that it was extra cost, and so we were told that “it wasn’t how they built around here”.

There are no drainage channels or pipes under or beside the track. This has resulted in the rain washing the finer materials out of the mix and huge ruts and crevices being carved out by running water taking the most direct route downhill, as water does.

At times the track has almost been impassable although we’ve tried to repair it from time to time. It was clear that temporary repairs weren’t going to cut it for much longer – it was time to do a proper job.

Husband and friend hired a digger, a roller and a whacker plate machine and have worked through this last week to dig drainage channels, lay geotec membrane, cover the drive surface with several inches of hardcore and compact it.

It’s still a work in progress but is looking so much better.

The digger at rest

Due to the difference in level between the house floor and the ground we were also faced with the prospect of a long wheelchair access ramp for the front door. Necessary for building regs.

But no longer. The surface has been brought up to where the doorstep will be.

Luckily the weather stayed largely fair for the week of work, and so great progress has been made.

I’ve lost count of the tonnes of hardcore that have been delivered.

Rollin’, rollin’, rollin’

As I write the workers are taking a break and will have a well-deserved day of rest tomorrow before cracking on next week to complete the job.

Level surfaces! No potholes and crevices! We’ll hardly recognise the place.

Thank you Hugh and Andy.